Swimming Cows of Baringo

Forgotten Paradise: The Struggles of Kokwa Island on Lake Baringo

Written by Ben Gitau

From the skies, Kokwa Island appears as a massive battleship, seemingly gunning towards the shores of Lake Baringo. Or perhaps, it resembles a gargantuan whale gracefully floating on the lake’s fresh waters. As you descend closer to this intriguing island, the rugged edges that once looked like whiskers transform into lush shrubbery, and the rectangular scales on its back become glistening rooftops of houses interconnected by pathways that branch off like vital arteries.

Kokwa Island, situated in the heart of Lake Baringo, is home to more than 2,000 people, primarily from the Ilchamus community, also known as the Njemps—a unique Maasai sub-tribe known for their fish-eating traditions. At first glance, Kokwa is the epitome of tranquility, a paradise. Yet, beneath the veneer of serenity lies a community that feels abandoned in their struggle, forgotten by both levels of government. They have been forced to improvise in their daily lives to fulfill even the most basic of tasks.

Separated from the mainland by water, Kokwa’s isolation is palpable. The absence of essential social amenities and even a police presence to maintain law and order paints a stark picture of government neglect.

The shortest distance to the mainland is a mere seven kilometers across the water. With no bridge or ferry servicing the island, the task of transporting supplies and livestock in and out of Kokwa demands skill, courage, and stamina.

In a bid to adapt to the dwindling fish supplies in the lake, the Ilchamus community turned to pastoralism. However, getting their prized cattle to the mainland’s market presents a formidable challenge. The only way to access Marigat, the nearest market town some 18 kilometers away, is for the cattle and their handlers to seemingly ‘swim’ across the lake.

The journey from the island to the mainland is approximately seven kilometers, taking a grueling three hours to complete with the cattle in tow. While cows are natural swimmers, it’s not just the distance that’s astonishing. The journey takes them through waters infested with hippos and crocodiles.

Local fishermen utilize canoes crafted from Ambach tree logs, each capable of carrying a single person who paddles using an improvised piece of plastic. To successfully transport their cattle, at least two people are needed: one leads the way in a canoe, which pulls the cow behind it, while the second person swims alongside, gently prodding the cow forward in case it hesitates.

This challenging task is left to professionals who are hired by the cattle owners, each earning a meager 200 shillings for their services. Failure to sell the cattle means a torturous journey back to the island, but for these islanders, it’s simply a way of life.

The residents of Kokwa Island face daunting challenges. Poverty levels are high in the area, and literacy rates are low. A single primary school serves more than 500 pupils, with no secondary school in sight. To access secondary education, students must board on the mainland, further complicating their pursuit of knowledge.

Healthcare facilities are limited, relying on a community dispensary that frequently lacks essential medicines. The clinic is staffed by a nurse who works only three days a week.

The people of Kokwa Island hope that political leaders at both the national and county levels will step up and address their plight. They seek more than just fleeting helicopter visits during election seasons. They yearn for sustainable solutions that will awaken this sleeping paradise and provide its residents with the opportunities and support they so desperately need. Kokwa Island may be isolated, but its residents deserve to be remembered and cared for like any other part of our vibrant society.

Edited by Neville Ng’ambwa